Monday, 22 December 2014

Advent Gift Day 22

The Advent Gift for Day 22 is the pattern for a motif which featured in my crochet club design in 2012. 
The motif is called Coronet Rose and it was one of 6 central panels which made up the Victorian themed design.


The pattern and accompanying images will only be on the blog for approximately 24 hours after which time I will delete the majority of the post.

This pattern is not available anywhere else, so if you want to keep it you will need to copy, paste and save the following post:

CORONET ROSE

This is the very first piece of crochet I designed for the crochet club project. It was this piece that inspired me to investigate Victorian lace crochet and set my colour palette. I think this is one of my favourite pieces and I am tempted at some point to make a blanket that just uses a repeat of this block. There is nothing too complicated about this piece, but there are quite a few yarn ends to sew in so you may wish to do this as you go along.



You will need 10 shades of Rowan Cotton Glace - the shades I refer to all all current except Candy Floss, which could be substituted with Rose (861) and Umber which could be substituted with Earth 863.
You can see the current Glace Shade range by following this link to the Rowan web site
The 8 other shades used are as follows:

Ochre (833)
Heather (828)
Dijon (739)
Blood Orange (445)
Bubbles (724)
Shell (845)
Oyster (730)
Toffee (843)

You will also need some beads - I used Debbie Abrahams beads in Bronze (601) size 6/0. A link to the bead range is here.

MEASUREMENT: Completed (square) piece approx. 29.5cm square  

STITCHES USED (UK):
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch
tr = treble crochet
dc = double crochet
htr = half treble
dtr = double treble crochet
dtr2tog = double treble crochet 2 together
dtr3tog = double treble crochet 3 together
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together

ABBREVIATIONS (UK):

st (s) = stitch (stitches)
sp = space
ch sp = chain space
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong side
tch = turning chain
bdc = beaded double crochet

METHOD:

Using Ochre, make 6ch, join with a ss to make a ring
Foundation Round: 1ch (does not count as a st) 12dc into ring, ss into 1st dc at beg of round to join (12sts)
Round 1: 3ch (counts as 1tr), 1tr into st at base of 3ch, 2tr into each st to end of round, ss into top of 3ch at beg of row to join, fasten off (24sts)



Thread 24 beads onto Heather
With (WS) facing and using Heather, join yarn into any st by working 1ch
Round 2: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1bdc into st at base of 1ch and each st to end of round, ss into 1st dc at beg of round to join, fasten off. (24sts), turn



With (RS) facing and using Dijon, join yarn into any st by working 1ch
Round 3: (RS facing) 5ch, skip 2sts, * 1dc into next st, 5ch, skip 2sts; repeat from * to end of round, ss into 1st ch at beg of round to join. (8 chain spaces created)
Round 4: * [1dc, 1htr, 2tr, 3ch, 2tr, 1htr, 1dc] into next ch sp; repeat from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc at beg of round to join, fasten off.



Note: from here to end of octagonal shape all rows are Right Side facing so DO NOT turn

Using Blood Orange, join yarn into any 3ch sp by working 1ch
Round 5: 4ch, dtr2tog into same ch sp, 4ch, [dtr3tog, 4ch, dtr3tog] into same ch sp, 1ch * [dtr3tog, 4ch, dtr3tog, 4ch, dtr3tog] into next ch sp, 1ch; repeat from * to end of round, ss into top of 4ch at beg of round to join, fasten off.


Using Bubbles, join yarn into any 1ch sp by working 1ch
Round 6: 1ch (does not count as a st), 3dc into same ch sp, [5dc into next ch sp] twice, * 3dc into next ch sp, [5dc into next ch sp] twice; repeat from * to end of round, ss into 1st dc at beg of round to join, fasten off.



Using Candy Floss, join yarn in at central dc of 3dc group on previous row by working 1ch
Round 7: * 6ch, miss 3dc, 1dc into next st, 6ch, miss 4dc, 1dc into next st, 6ch, miss 3dc, 1dc into next st; repeat from * 6 times more, 6ch, miss 3dc, 1dc into next st, 6ch, miss 4dc, 3ch, 1dtr into st at base of 6ch at beginning of the round to join (hook in correct position to begin the next round)
Round 8: * 6ch, 1dc into next ch sp, dtr2tog into next ch sp, [4ch, dtr3tog into same ch sp] twice, 4ch, dtr2tog into same ch sp, 1dc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end of round, working 1dc into top of dtr worked at the end of Round 7 to join
Round 9: ss into each next 3ch, * 6dtr into next ch sp, 3dtr into next ch sp, 1ch, 3dtr into same ch sp, 6dtr into next ch sp, 1dc into next 6ch sp; repeat from * to end of round, omitting last dc and working ss into dc at beg of round to join, fasten off.



Using Shell, join yarn into any 1ch sp at tip of ‘petal’ on previous round by working 1ch
Round 10: * 3dc into same ch sp, 1dc into each next 4sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 3sts, dc2tog, 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 4sts; repeat from * to end of round, ss into dc at beg of round to join, fasten off.

Using Blood Orange, join yarn into central dc of 3dc group on previous row by working 1ch
Round 11: 3dc into same st, * 1dc into each next 4sts, 1htr into each next 2sts, 1tr into each next 2sts, [dtr2tog over next 2sts] 3 times, 1tr into each next 2sts, 1htr into each next 2sts, 1dc into each next 3sts, 3dc into same st; repeat from * to end of round, omitting last 3dc and working ss into dc at beg of round to join, fasten off.

Using Umber, join yarn into central dc of 3dc group on previous row by working 1ch
Round 12: 3dc into same st, 1dc into each next 20sts, * 3dc into next st, 1dc into each next 20sts; repeat from * to end of round, ss into dc at beg of round to join, fasten off. (184sts)

Using Toffee, join yarn into central dc of 3dc group on previous row by working 1ch
Round 13: 1dc into same st, 1dc into each st to end of to end of round, ss into dc at beg of round to join, fasten off. (184sts)

Place a marker at the point of each ‘corner’ counting 22 sts between each marker.

Using Bubbles insert hook into a marked st, work 1ch to join yarn
Round 14: 3dc into same st, 1dc into each next 22sts, * 3dc into next st, 1dc into each next 22sts; repeat from * to end of round, ss into dc at beg of round to join. (200 sts)
Round 15: 1ch (does not count as a st), 1dc into each st to end of to end of round, ss into dc at beg of round to join, fasten off. (200sts)
Place markers into the st at each corner, counting 24sts between each marker
Sew in yarn ends

* Using Oyster and with RS facing, miss marked st, insert hook into next st, work 1ch to join yarn
Row 1: 1dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each next 23sts (marker is on the next st), (24sts) turn
Row 2: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 21sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (22sts) turn
Row 3: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 19sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (20sts) turn
Row 4: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 17sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (18sts) turn
Row 5: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 15sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (16sts) turn
Row 6: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 13sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (14sts) turn
Row 7: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 11sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (12sts) turn
Row 8: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 9sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (10sts) turn
Row 9: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 7sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (8sts) turn
Row 10: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 5sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (6sts) turn
Row 11: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into each next 3sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, (4sts) turn
Row 12: 1ch, skip 1 st, 1dc into next st, dc2tog over next 2sts, (2sts) turn
Row 13: 1ch, dc2tog over next 2sts, fasten off
Do not turn. Leave all markers in place.

Miss next 26sts
Repeat from * until 4 triangular corners have been made, do not fasten off after last triangle has been made

Work Edging as follows:
Round 1: 1ch (does not count as a st), 3dc into st at base of 1ch, * 15dc evenly along side edge of triangle, 1dc into marked st, 1dc into each next 24sts, 1dc into marked st, 15dc evenly along side edge of next triangle, **, 3dc into st at top of triangle; repeat from * 3 times more, ending final repeat at **, (236sts), ss to join
Place markers into the central dc of each group of 3dc at each of the 4 corners, counting 58 sts between each marker
Round 2: ss into marked st, 1ch (does not count as a st), 3dc into st at base of 1ch, 1dc into each st to marker, * 3dc into marked st, 1dc into each st to marker; repeat from * to end of round, (244sts), ss to join, fasten off
Place markers into the central dc of each group of 3dc at each of the 4 corners, counting 60 sts between each marker
Sew in yarn ends

Block and press

Thursday, 18 December 2014

Surface Crochet Technique

The Advent 'gift' for Day 19 is the following technique tutorial.

You can copy and paste it if you want to keep it as a reference later on.

To see the last 7 Advent Gifts between now and Christmas Day visit the Facebook page

Surface Crochet:

Surface Crochet is a great way of adding decoration and extra interest to your crochet or knit pieces once they are fastened off. Surface crochet looks the same as sewn chain stitch, which is a common embroidery stitch.

Hold the yarn you wish to use for the surface crochet at the reverse of the work:


Insert your hook into the required place – you will see that crochet stitches make consistent holes, so simply choose which line you wish to follow. Catch the yarn at the reverse side of the work:


Draw the yarn through to the front of the work using your hook, making sure to anchor the tail end of the yarn at the back of the work so that the stitches do not slip through to the front side of the work:


Insert your hook into the next hole:


Draw the yarn through to the front of the work using your hook (2 loops on hook):


Draw first loop through the second to create a slip stitch:


Continue in this way to create your chain stitch design:


Once you have completed your design, cut the yarn tail:


Draw the tail through to the front of the work and thread through the eye of a sewing needle. Sew around first chain as in the image below:



The images below show surface crochet on a background of double crochet: